Los Primos de San Juan

The kitchen is run by César Hernández, formerly sous chef at Central, and his brother Héctor, from the Museo Larco restaurant; the dining room is led by their cousin Alan Chamba, who comes from Central's hospitality team. The starting point is grandmother María's table and the food they grew up on in San Juan de Miraflores, which yields dishes like the Ceviche de Triciclo, the Conchas del Tío Julio and El Seco de María, served with tasting-menu precision but none of the solemnity. Our read: it is one of Surquillo's most talked-about debuts, and works best when you follow the names —every dish is an anecdote— rather than the category. Google lists reservations as required and the room is small: book well ahead.