Alado

It opened in April 2022 in a house on Tudela y Varela, with high ceilings, a covered terrace and a bar that dominates the room. The menu is short but deliberately wide: fire-cooked starters such as the Josper octopus, house-made pasta, Angus cuts and rice dishes —squid-ink rice with crispy calamari, duck rice with loche and chicha de jora— where the hand of Cosme's chef shows. Our read: this is Cosme unbuttoned, more about fire and lingering than tasting menus, and the bar is the best seat in the house. Book ahead: Google lists reservations as required.