Cicciolina

You come in by a narrow staircase off Calle Palacio and arrive in a room with an open bar, tables close together and candles: the format hasn't changed in two decades and that's part of the charm. The kitchen mixes Andean produce with Mediterranean technique, there's a tapas bar and a wine list, and the house rounds out the set with a separate café —on Calle Ruinas— and picnics to take into the Valley. Our read: it's one of the few places in the old town that holds its level year after year, intimate and romantic; the room is small and fills up, so Google recommends booking for lunch and dinner even though it isn't required. Note: it is not wheelchair accessible and parking nearby is hard.