Kao

Kao occupies an old house in central Arequipa, half a block from the San Francisco square, and makes the most of the sillar: white stone vaults, low light and pale wooden tables. The kitchen crosses Thailand with Peru, which shows in the plating — several dishes arrive on stone batanes with the sauce poured at the table — and in the menu: curries and spring rolls alongside tiraditos, octopus and glazed pork belly. It is one of Arequipa's higher-end tables, between 60 and 140 soles a head, and works on reservations. Open from half past twelve to ten, and Sundays for lunch only.