La Patarashca

It operates inside the hotel of the same name on Jr. Lamas, and it is where half of Tarapoto takes its visitors: juane, tacacho with cecina and chorizo, paiche ceviche, inchicapi, sudado de gamitana. Elia García built the restaurant three decades ago, after her family left its business at Laguna Venecia during the years of political violence, and her bet has been to insist on the ancestral repertoire rather than lighten it for tourists. Our read: the menu is long and the room fills up, so do not come looking for intimacy; order the regional dishes, which is where this kitchen really plays. There is a terrace, a bar and wi-fi, and dogs are welcome.