Big Ben — California

Big Ben California occupies a house on Calle Los Geranios, in Víctor Larco Herrera, with a covered courtyard, outdoor tables and a private dining room; it is the city branch of a house the brand describes as having more than three decades of northern cooking. The menu is long and sea-facing: classic, northern and premium ceviches, tiraditos in two and three creams, chicharrones and seafood rice dishes, plus the Huanchaco chapter — crab meat reventado, whole crabs — and the northern criollo of kid goat, duck and arroz con pato. Our read: this is a long-lunch, shared-table seafood house rather than a dinner spot: it closes at 5:30 in the afternoon every day, and the platters and buffets for four or five people say what people come for. Practically: there is free parking with accessible bays, dogs are allowed indoors as well as out, there is live music and a kids' menu, and the place is wheelchair accessible. Curation note: the brand's site shows a Summum seal with no visible year or category, so it was not loaded as a ranking; and Big Ben has a second location in Huanchaco, with its own entry in Limeo.